I appreciate the element of uncertainty in the kitchen. This might make me an inferior food writer. But I’ve never been particularly good at faking it. I did, after all, promise you jelly. Last year, I made a tiny batch of quince jelly–4 perfect half-cup jars. They were firm like tough jello- barely spreadable, but…
membrillo, or quince part one
I adore this fruit. There are a few foods I feel this way about. Rhubarb. Leeks. Celeriac. When I have a pile of quinces on the counter, I feel newly in love, tingly, unsure of what will happen next. I feel like I’ve discovered them. And I always have. This is something I want to…
quince rosemary polenta bread
There is a candle dynasty around here, and its main headquarters is about an hour away in the Pioneer Valley. The sign, outstandingly visible from the highway, claims the location as “the scenter of the universe.” I drove by the place on my way to a wedding this past summer; it was a gorgeous summer…
brave combinations
I have friends who are very dear to me- they are a couple who both like to cook, although he is regarded as the more skillful of the two. The three of us were having a conversation a while back about flavor combinations.“How do you just know what to put together?”This was her query. She…
quince poached in cardamom vanilla syrup
Oh the quince! I have found you! When Gourmet Magazine put a quince with its fine pubescence on the cover of the magazine last month, the girls could not stop asking about it. What is this?! A quince, like I said. A quince! A quince! What is a quince? A special fruit, I answered. That…